Inside Trianon Cake Shop in the south western Sydney suburb of Earlwood, pastry chef James Pitsiniagas is baking vast quantities of aromatic bread. Its spicy, sweet aroma drifts through the store.
And with Orthodox Easter coming up on Sunday, the past week has been James' busiest of the year.
“We’re working about a hundred hours a week, doing maybe 250 tsoureki a day, and they're all handmade,” the 21-year-old says.
Tsoureki is a traditional Greek Easter bread, with three strands of dough braided to symbolise the Holy Trinity.
“Once the bread is baked, we have to cool them and put them in the plastic bags. It's a big process, but it is enjoyable. It gives you energy,” Trianon owner Arthur Efthymiou says.
Tsoureki, bagged and ready for sale, at Trianon Cake Shop Source: SBS/Massilia Aili
Sales are up again as family celebrations return to normal this year, after coronavirus restrictions and social distancing rules forced the cancellation of most large gatherings in 2020.
Easter is the biggest religious event on the Orthodox calendar, as Arthur and James know well. They typically supply more than 2,200 tsourekis to loyal customers in the lead-up to the event each year.
“It's crazy. There's no sleep, we're mostly just here all the time, cooking, running the business, going home, showering, sleeping for a few hours and going back here again. It just doesn't stop, really,” Arthur says.
Arthur and his family ran a shop of the same name in Cyprus until 1974, when they fled to Australia to escape political unrest.
After arriving in Sydney as a refugee, Arthur continued the Trianon name, where he and James today put their own twists on various traditional Mediterranean treats, including flaounes, a Cypriot pastry.
“We roll out the pastry on a big machine, cut it individually and hand-weigh cheese,” James says. “Then we place it in the pastry and fold it over. It's really unique and we are probably the only cake shop in Sydney that cooks it fresh on-site each day.”
On Sunday, more than 650,000 Orthodox Christians across Australia will celebrate Easter, a full month after other Christians.
Orthodox Christians adhere to the Julian calendar when calculating religious dates, whereas other churches, such as the Catholic or Protestant church, use the Gregorian calendar for both religious and secular purposes.
“Orthodox Easter always falls on a Sunday. It's always after the equinox, it's always on a rising moon and it's always after the Jewish Passover,” says Reverend Vlado Nedeski, from the St Petka Macedonian Church in Rockdale, in Sydney's south west.
He is pleased COVID-19 and social distancing restrictions have eased, having severely impacted last year's celebrations.
Reverend Vlado Nedeski, from the St Petka Macedonian Church in Rockdale Source: SBS/Massilia Aili
“We are overjoyed because we have no restrictions and we will be able to celebrate our biggest event [on the annual calendar].”
Candles are a key symbol of Orthodox Easter and will be present at churches across Australia this weekend.
Orthodox Christians believe that holding a lighted Easter candle symbolises a person’s deep faith in the resurrection of Jesus.
For the past 30 years, candle vendor Rena Moustakas has sold a colourful range at Orthodox Easter through her business, The Perfect Occasion, in Marrickville, in Sydney’s inner-west. Many candles are given to children as gifts.
“To me, [candles] are artworks. Each candle tells a story, and is special for a child that receives it. It needs to suit their personality,” Rena says.
“Last year was a disaster during Easter, because obviously all our church services were cancelled, and a lot of godparents couldn't come out to buy a candle.
Sydney candle vendor Rena Moustakas. Source: SBS/Massilia Aili
“[Candles] give children a lot of joy. And a lot of customers thank me after they've given the candles to their godchildren.”
Rena says she expects to sell at least 1,000 more candles this year compared to last.
For many business owners, the increased financial return surrounding this weekend is welcome.
But for many others, including Rena and James Pitsiniagas, there’s a deeper satisfaction.
“I feel proud and happy to serve people and make their day special,” James says.
