For some, a mention of Alice Springs conjures images of swirling red dust and vast open space surrounding a desert outpost, with little culinary variety in sight.
But the experience of one Thai family and their successful food truck, Sab E Lee, goes to show that the Alice has plenty to offer.
Despite a relatively small population of roughly 23,000 people, more than a third of Alice Springs’ residents were born overseas – 35.8 per cent according to the 2016 census. And keep in mind that the nearest international airport is some 1,300 kilometres away in Darwin.
More than a third of Alice Springs’ residents were born overseas – 35.8 per cent according to the 2016 census.
Despite a relatively small population of roughly 23,000 people, more than a third of Alice Springs’ residents were born overseas. (Supplied) Source: Supplied
Irin Warawitya and her husband Prayun Triamtana own and operate ‘Sab E Lee’ (meaning ‘strikingly tasty’). Their compact food truck, with its own striking chilli-red livery, specialises in tasty Thai dishes, including noodle soups, staples such as Pad Thai and other more traditional dishes, served from the orange glow of its neon-lit bain-marie.
Sab E Lee is the realisation of their “ultimate dream,” Warawitya tells SBS Thai, which they had kept in their hearts years, if not decades.
“We basically want to have something that represents solely our own point of view - something completely our own.”
“The feedback has been excellent, since day one,” Warawitya says. “[Some] have never seen anything like this before, so [to them] we were the first to have come up with this."
Prior to landing in Alice Springs, Warawitya spent 30-odd years working various jobs around Australia, from Darwin to Perth and Queensland, but never found a workplace where she was happy as a subordinate.
“There were very petty issues about work, about the bosses, sometimes we all hit a limit,” she says. “Being your own boss is way better.”
Living out a dream does not always come cheap, though. Warawitya advises that anyone keen to set up a similar business would need to have at least $50,000 ready to spend.
Their van took more than three months to build, along with roughly three additional months to take care of the accompanying paperwork.
“My partner designed it himself,” Warawitya says. “He wanted a compact one which we can take anywhere we want to, so it could not be too cumbersome.
The couple had their van custom-built in Darwin. (Supplied) Source: Supplied
“It’s not just building a van, you need to consider the rego [registration], equipment and many other things.” - Irin Warawitya
Other ongoing costs and requirements for Sab E Lee include meeting crucial food safety standards, insurance and rent, which can vary from $25 per day for a spot at a weekend market, to $250 a day for patch at a more prominent fair.
Further, finding Thai employees to work the van has proven to be almost entirely impossible, so the couple rely on the strength of their family to keep things running smoothly.
“There are no students, so it is very hard to find [staff],” says Warawitya. “We have a son, so we can manage the van ourselves. It’s not too heavy and the places we go to are rather flat, so it doesn’t require too much pushing. But one very essential skill is the command of a vehicle — you must be very precise at that!”
Then there is the consideration of how to source their unique ingredients. While Thai food and traditional ingredients are readily available in major cities, Alice Springs doesn’t have quite the same variety on offer.
Irin Warawitya's husband, Prayun Triamtana and their son inside Sab E Lee. (Supplied) Source: Supplied
“We found that people here can actually eat very spicy food. Many times we completely run out of our chilli powder!”
“In terms of Thai ingredients, I mostly order from Adelaide or Darwin,” says Warawitya. “I’d telephone them and the ingredients get sent here by freight companies, in big consignments.”
When it comes to the dishes on offer, Sab E Lee has a whole suite of favourites, and locals are more than willing to experiment with spice and new flavours.
“Our popular dishes are usually Thai-style noodle soups and laksa noodles,” says Warawitya. “We have [also] been adding new items such as Pad Thai, Pad See Ew, Pad Khee Mao [and] Pad Ka Phrao - the more [authentically] Thai dishes.
Locals are more than willing to experiment with spice and new flavours. (Supplied) Source: Supplied
“We found that people here can actually eat very spicy food. Many times we completely run out of our chilli powder!”
Asked if she feels the geographical isolation, Warawitya seems almost unaware of it altogether. She and Triamtana hail from remote Thai cities Ubon Ratchathani and Chiang Rai respectively, so they are accustomed to life away from hustle and bustle.
“For me I don’t feel isolated. We live [here] as a family. I have my husband, my son and people we know. It’s not isolated. There are Coles, Woolworths, Kmart and Target here—it’s still quite a colourful town actually.”
Speaking of colour, Sab E Lee’s colourful design is an effective magnet for clients. This is especially true at night, when its lights are switched on and the food van glows with a luminous purple hue, attracting customers like the NT's ubiquitous Yeperenye moths.
The van is a hit with the locals, says Warawitya, and as it turns out, it will likely soon have a similarly colourful sibling.
“The feedback has been excellent, since day one,” Warawitya says. “[Some] have never seen anything like this before, so [to them] we were the first to have come up with this.
Sab E Lee food van against the night sky of Alice springs. (Supplied) Source: Supplied
“Also, our sales figures keep going up and up and that’s the response that we’ve had from the people here… The next one I’m thinking of doing is actually not food, but a drink van - fruit smoothies, fruit drinks, things like that.”
Don’t forget to check it out next time you’re up in Alice Springs, if you make it as far as these earnest and intrepid Thais.
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