Stuffed little meat rolls (Useleti scampai)

Useleti (or oseleti) are traditionally made with thin slices of veal, layered with slices of cured pork or pancetta and sage leaves, rolled up and then pan-fried in a sauce made of wine, a hint of tomato, and the juices that are released during cooking.

Stuffed little meat rolls (Useleti scampai) Credit: Paola Bacchia

• serves

  4

• prep

  10 minutes

• cook

  50 minutes

• difficulty

  Easy

"Useleti (or oseleti) is a dialect word meaning 'little birds' (in Italian, uccellini) – which is what these little meat rolls are meant to resemble. They're also called useleti scampai ('little birds that have escaped'– though I guess if they are in the pan, they have probably been caught!). 

I take my inspiration for this recipe from my aunt Dina, who would make a similar version, adding cheese to the filling. Serve with polenta or smashed potatoes with onion and olive oil, so you can collect all the delicious pan juices."

Ingredients

• 12 slices veal or yearling round-eye (girello) – approx. 600 g (see Note) 
• 600 g (approx) sea salt
• 12 thin slices pancetta
• 6 thin slices good-quality leg ham, cut in half
• 12 large sage leaves
• 60 g gruyère, cut into 12 batons
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 125 ml (½ cup) white wine
• 60 ml (¼ cup) tomato passata

Instructions

1. Sprinkle the veal slices with salt. Layer with the pancetta and ham slices, one on top of the other; they should be slightly smaller than the meat. Place a sage leaf and cheese baton on one end – the cheese should be slightly smaller than the length of the meat on the short edge. Roll up and thread with a toothpick so the meat roll is well secured.
2. Place the olive oil in a frying pan that will fit all the rolls in a single layer (they will shrink slightly) and set over medium-high heat. Add the meat rolls and sear for about 3 minutes on each side, turning frequently, until nicely coloured.
3. Add the wine, passata and 185–250 ml (¾–1 cup) of water; the rolls should be a bit over halfway covered with liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat.
4. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, turning the rolls every now and then so they are bathed in the pan juices. Remove the lid for the last 10 minutes of cooking to thicken the sauce. The meat should be cooked through and tender after 40–50 minutes.
5. If there is too much sauce, remove the rolls and place them on a warmed plate, then turn up the heat to reduce the sauce until it is the desired consistency.
6. You should not need to add any more salt, but taste just to be sure.
7. Serve warm with the sauce spooned over, on a bed of polenta, if you'd like to be traditional.

Note

• Ask your butcher to bang out/mallet the slices of veal, so they are about 6 cm x 8 cm in size.

Recipe from Istria: Recipes and stories from the hidden heart of Italy, Slovenia and Croatia by Paola Bacchia, published by Smith Street Books (RRP $55.00). Photography by Paola Bacchia.

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.

"Useleti (or oseleti) is a dialect word meaning 'little birds' (in Italian, uccellini) – which is what these little meat rolls are meant to resemble. They're also called useleti scampai ('little birds that have escaped'– though I guess if they are in the pan, they have probably been caught!). 

I take my inspiration for this recipe from my aunt Dina, who would make a similar version, adding cheese to the filling. Serve with polenta or smashed potatoes with onion and olive oil, so you can collect all the delicious pan juices."