What you need to know about the fermented rice cake idli

Soak up the flavours of Indian chutney with an idli.

Idlis are the perfect breakfast with a cup of tea. Source: Bhavna Kalra

As a north Indian who grew up on a steady breakfast diet of parathas – flatbread made with wheat and stuffed with different veggies and generously smeared with ghee – idlis were a treat that we all looked forward to. However, what are idlis, you ask?

Idlis are savoury steamed rice cakes made with a fermented batter of rice and lentils that are commonly eaten in South India. They're steamed in a mould, which gives them their distinctive shape. They are eaten for breakfast or as a snack with a variety of chutney or a lentil stew called sambar.

Eat your idli with sides of chutney. Source: Bhavna Kalra

The history of idlis isn't clear, but food scientist and author K.T. Achaya suggests that they may have entered India around the 9th to 13th Century from Indonesia. There are also references to idli in the 12th-Century Sanskrit text called Manasollasa by King Someshwara III. Others think that south Indian fabric merchants introduced idlis around the same time. 

Idlis are unlike north Indian flatbreads, roti or chapati, which are made with wheat flour, water and salt. To make idlis, rice and lentils are soaked and ground together into a paste. Then, the lacto-fermentation process weaves its magic, similar to a sourdough starter. It takes around two to three days to prepare the batter, depending on the weather. This is why my mother only made them for us as a treat on Sunday mornings when everyone was home.

Wholesome, nutritious, and perfect to soak up any of the flavours that you dip it in.

It's important not to use basmati rice in the batter. Parboiled or idli rice is best and results in soft fluffy idlis.

They're not hard to make. However, you need to pray to the fermentation gods that the batter rises to the occasion. Once fermented, the batter can be stored in the fridge for three to four days and used as needed. 

However, if like me, you're an idli fan but don't have the time or patience to make the batter or wait for it to ferment, you can make semolina or rava idlis, which are instant and can be ready in under an hour.

Idli uses a fermented batter. Source: Bhavna Kalra

Semolina idlis were made famous by the popular restaurant chain Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, often called MTR, of Bengaluru. During World War II, there was a shortage of rice, so the owners experimented with semolina and added yoghurt to aid fermentation, which resulted in idlis. Some recipes also call for Eno. Yes, you read that right: the powder to treat heartburn. It provides a light tang that you get from the standard fermentation process.  

This bread is wholesome, nutritious and perfect to soak up flavours. Whatever the origins are, and whether it's made with rice and lentils or semolina and yoghurt, idlis are a firm Indian favourite. 

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Semolina idlis

• 1 cup coarse semolina (look for a packet labelled 'semolina idli' at Indian stores)

• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp chana dahl
• ½ tsp asafoetida
• 8-10 curry leaves
• 2 green chillies, finely chopped
• 2.5 cm ginger, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, finely grated
• 1 tsp turmeric
• ¾ cup plain yoghurt
• 1 tsp salt
• ½ cup water
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• ¼ tsp baking soda
• Handful cashews, halved
• Coriander, freshly chopped

Method

1. Heat oil in a wok and add the mustard and cumin seeds, chana dahl and asafoetida. Reduce the heat so the spices don't burn. Then add the ginger, green chillies and curry leaves. 
2. Add the carrot and turmeric and mix well. Add the semolina and gently roast, ensuring the mixture doesn't burn. After a few minutes, take it off the heat, cool it down completely and transfer it to a bowl.
3. Add the yoghurt, coriander and salt to make a thick batter. Add ½ cup of water and let it rest for 30 minutes. Semolina absorbs water, so you may need to add a little more water if the batter becomes too thick.
4. Grease the idli plate with oil and place cashews in the centre of each mold. Before you ladle the batter on the plate, add Eno or baking soda, mix gently and pour into the mold.
5. Steam the idlis for 13–15 minutes. Turn off the heat and remove the moulds from the steamer. Let them rest for 5 minutes before using a knife to release them from the molds. Serve them with coconut chutney (see below).

Coconut chutney 

• 1 cup fresh or desiccated coconut
• 3-4 green chillies (you can use less if you don't like too much spice)
• Small seedless tamarind ball
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼-½ cup water

For tempering

• 2 tsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• ½ tsp urad dahl
• ½ tsp chana dahl (optional)
• 3-4 dried red chillies
• 7-8 curry leaves 

Method

1. Combine the chutney ingredients in a blender and blend to a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl.
2. To temper, heat the oil and reduce the flame. Add the red chillies, chana and urad dahl, and mustard seeds. As the seeds start popping, pour the oil on to the chutney. Refrigerate and always use a clean spoon to scoop the chutney out.

 

Bhavna Kalra is a passionate Indian cook based out of Sydney. She missed Indian food after moving to Australia over a decade ago and started to cook, write, and document the traditional recipes that she grew up eating back home. follow her on Instagram @themoderndesi.co