If you truly love chocolate, you should get to know it on a deeper level and perhaps try it in its raw form: cacao.
Cacao hails from the bitter seeds of the cacao tree (also called . First, the seeds are fermented to develop flavour, and then they are dried, cleaned and roasted. The shell of the cacao bean is removed to produce cacao nibs or ground into a powder.
Although the origins of the cacao tree can be traced to the Amazon basin region, the of southern Mexico were the first to use its beans for consumption in 1500 BC.
“They were the first peoples to transform the seeds of cacao into a drink,” cacao advocate and events director at , Karem Aldena tells SBS.
“They fermented the bean, toasted and ground it, then added water. They drank raw cacao with water warm, not hot. Cacao also became part of the Indigenous peoples’ rituals, as they celebrated what came from nature. Cacao was an integral part of their everyday life.”
Cacao was consumed as medicine by Indigenous peoples around 460 AD. By the 1500s, cacao had made its way to Europe, where it went on to be used for weight management, to stimulate the nervous system and improve digestion.
Founder of , Diego Lugo says that today, cacao is still used ceremonially and remains an inseparable part of Mexican culture in some regions.
“If you go to the south of Mexico, you will see people having reunions around the cacao tree,” explains Lugo. “Men go outside in the morning to pick the fruits and the women clean the seed and grind it. Cacao is still a part of the cultural life of the people.”
Although cacao is not celebrated like this in the cities, Lugo says cacao is highly regarded across the country and around the world. The ingredient is popular throughout Latin America, the and parts of like Ghana and Nigeria.
The benefits of cacao
Most recently, cacao has also gained a following across the globe for its perceived . Studies show that cacao may contain more than most foods.
It’s believed that cacao offers and effects. It may also help to protect nerves from injury and inflammation, and directly influence insulin resistance. Cacao may also produce on satiety, cognitive function and mood.
However, that when cacao is typically consumed in the form of energy-dense dark chocolate, health benefits may vary. “People need to understand the difference between cacao and chocolate,” says Lugo. “Cacao is healthy. Chocolate is related to cacao but they are not the same thing.”
While chocolate is sweetened with sugar, cacao is not because it is closer to its natural form. Once the bean has been roasted and turned into powder or nib, the product should taste bitter.
“If you are trying to be healthy, you have to be aware that cacao – raw chocolate – is naturally bitter,” he adds. “You have to be open to that.”
Using cacao at home
A simple way to incorporate the bitter flavour of cacao into your diet is to drink it with water, as ancient peoples once did. Or feature it in your cooking at home.
Co-owner of , Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez, tells SBS that within the bitterness of cacao exists a raw beauty that can improve the flavour of many dishes.
“Cacao is such a unique product,” says Lopez who was born in Mexico. “It tastes bitter but it’s also a rich, Earthy and buttery ingredient that hasn’t really been explored a lot in the culinary world.”
Lopez’s restaurant is one of the very few in Sydney that features dishes made with cacao. Like Lugo, Lopez was raised “in a culture that recognises the strong value of cacao”.
The most versatile way to use cacao as an ingredient, Lopez says, is in sauce – or as it’s referred to in Mexican cuisine, . At the restaurant, the chef has created a brownie featuring cacao, chilli, spices and nuts that comes paired with a sweet mole made with cacao.
“Sweet moles are not really done in Mexico. A lot of the Mexicans who taste it may be challenged by the idea of a sweet mole because they are used to moles tasting savoury. But it’s super interesting and rich.”
For me, learning to cook with cacao changed how I perceive now food and bitter flavours.
Lopez suggests that cacao can be added to a creamy avocado sorbet, along with a hint of chilli for an extra kick. “Cacao almonds can be sprinkled over salads for crunch and a depth of flavour. We’ve also added it to a few granola types of preparations using amaranth.”
Using cacao in your cooking may also achieve another major plus: “it may mean that people start to research what real Mexican food is instead of assuming it’s the same as Tex Mex”.
By learning to appreciate the bitter taste of cacao, home cooks may also stumble into a world of flavours they didn’t appreciate before.
“For me, learning to cook with cacao changed how I perceive now food and bitter flavours. Just by trying cacao and understanding the varying tones of chocolate, you might actually broaden your palate.”
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