Savour the in-between moments: Silvia Colloca on the magic of midnight spaghetti

Spaghetti di mezzanotte is a cherished tradition, says Colloca, as she shares recipes to enjoy as the clock ticks towards midnight.

Silvia Colloca's assassin's spaghetti. Credit: Plum Books / Alan Benson

At the heart of Italian culture is the appreciation for food as an expression of love and a source of immense pride.

While breakfast, lunch and dinner are certainly the cornerstones of daily sustenance, it’s the in-between moments that truly highlight the Italian love affair with gastronomy. Snacks and morning and afternoon tea, or merenda, are cherished traditions that capture the essence of Italian society, where food offers the opportunity to savour life’s simple pleasures. Our passion for food is intertwined with our disposition for gathering. Whether it’s a quick stop at the local cafe, a leisurely merenda with friends and family, or a bite shared quietly at home, these moments symbolise connection and camaraderie.

Silvia Colloca in her TV series, Cook Like an Italian. Credit: EQ Media Production

We extend the invitation to partake in these moments at all hours of the day, and sometimes late at night, too. The tradition of spaghetti di mezzanotte (midnight spaghetti) is a cherished ritual that transcends the boundaries of time and hunger, weaving gastronomy into the very fabric of life. Picture a dimly lit kitchen, the remnants of a party that’s about to wind down, and those few still standing declaring it’s spaghetti di mezzanotte time as the clock slowly ticks towards midnight.

I’ve experienced the magic of midnight spaghetti many times. It’s not just about satisfying a late-night craving; it’s that very moment when friendships are forged. The simplicity of al dente pasta and the aromatic burst of garlic and chilli are like a warm embrace in the cool silence of the night. The act of twirling forkfuls of spaghetti, watching the steam rise and savouring the flavours create a sensory memory we treasure. But what truly makes spaghetti di mezzanotte special is the communal aspect. It encapsulates the essence of Italian food culture, embodying the love for food, family and the timeless beauty of midnight moments.

Spaghetti all’assassina (assassin’s spaghetti). Credit: Plum Books / Alan Benson

A great recipe for this is spaghetti all'assassina (assassin's spaghetti), the pasta dish that breaks all the rules! This classic Pugliese offering begs you to forget all that you know about cooking pasta and to trust the process. Dried spaghetti is added uncooked to a stainless-steel or cast-iron pan in one layer (make sure your pan size can accommodate this, there is no breaking of spaghetti allowed here!). The spaghetti is then cooked on one side before being flipped onto the other side to create a slightly crunchy and burnished look and flavour. A simple tomato and water broth is ladled over, in a way that borrows from the making of risotto, and in less than 10 minutes this uniquely tasty and visually stunning pasta dish is ready, perfect for late-night cravings.

Spaghetti aglio, olio pepperoncino (spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chilli). Credit: Plum Books / Alan Benson

Another spaghetti di mezzanotte for you is spaghetti aglio, olio pepperoncino (spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chilli). This humble bowl of pasta is one of the signature dishes of Italy. North and south unite over these luscious pasta strands enveloped in a velvety emulsion of olive oil, garlic, chilli and acqua di cottura (pasta cooking water). Italians rigorously eat this dish without grated Parmigiano on top. Don’t ask why … it’s tradition!

This is an edited extract from Italian Family Food by Silvia Colloca (Plum, RRP $44.99), photography by Alan Benson.