Affectionately referred to as Little Portugal, Petersham is the heartland of Portuguese food in Sydney. is the newest diner to open in the neighbourhood, serving Aussie editions of authentic Portuguese food. From the fan-favourite pastel de nata hotcakes to the Portuguese piri-piri (also spelt peri-peri) chicken sandwich and anchovies on toast, there's reason to visit time and time again.
Lunas is a family affair for restaurateurs, and Silva, who named the diner after their daughter. The couple is well known in Petersham for their two other successful venues, bakery and seafood restaurant .
Jose, who grew up in Northern Portugal and previously worked as head chef at Guillaume at Bennelong, tells SBS Food, "I gravitated towards working in kitchens when I was young – something about the teamwork and the delight from diners, combined with a passion for service and hospitality is infectious." He met his wife, Basia, at Bennelong, who was working front-of-house at the time.
"She's my partner in life and business, and a massive reason for the success of our business."
Jose and Basia brought co-Bennelong alum, chef , to helm the kitchen, and they collaborated on a menu that reimagines familiar flavours with a traditional Portuguese twist. Sydneysiders travel far and wide for a taste of Lunas' signature pastel de nata hotcakes, which feature warm custard from Sweet Belem's infamous Portuguese tarts (made using a recipe Jose inherited from the bakery's previous owner of 10 years, ).
Basia and Jose Silva, and Jacqueline Ektoros. Source: Lunas
It is contemporary Portuguese food, which is what I love to cook and eat.
For lunch, there's classic beef espetadas (Portuguese beef skewers), a piri-piri chicken burger, swordfish with black-eyed beans and quail egg, and sardines on toast.
The sardines sit on a dense slice of broa de milho (traditional Portuguese cornbread), which is baked in-house at Sweet Belem using a recipe passed down from Jose's mum, Alcina. 
"It is contemporary Portuguese food, which is what I love to cook and eat," Jose says. "The piri-piri sauce is a recipe from the staff meals I made at Bennelong many years ago. My signature recipe now has a place on a menu that works. It's on both the spatchcock and the chicken burger."
Sardines on toast at Lunas. Source: Lunas
Jose and Basia's heritage reflects not only in the diner's food and name but in the decor. Basia designed the space to blend the old with the new. Heritage features, such as the door, contrast modern furniture, like the forest green corrugated bar and benches, which were handcrafted from recycled honey timber.
The Lunas team hopes that Petersham's Portuguese culture remains strong for years to come and loves showcasing the food of their people.
"There's a lot of spotlight on Italian and Spanish food, but Portuguese cuisine is very underrepresented in the media and in the local food scene," Jose says. "Portuguese food is more than tarts and chicken burgers, which I think is what most people associate with it."
Lunas is currently open for breakfast and lunch. It will serve dinner once its outdoor dining area and herb station are complete.
Photos credited to Lunas
316 Stanmore Road, Petersham, Sydney
Wednesday–Sunday: 7am–3pm
PORTUGUESE FOOD
Move over custard tart: Portuguese cuisine is stepping out
