A bowl of pumpkin soup, made with respect and dignity, rests on a table at in Sydney's Woolloomooloo. Although the soup may look simple, it’s far from ordinary.
This free soup, served to males aged 21-plus who are either homeless or at risk of becoming homeless, captures the life-changing power of food relief.
“To the people we serve, our food is an acknowledgement that they’re a human being, and that they have a right to have something to eat and someone to talk to,” says Mark Purchase, crisis accommodation manager at the hostel.
“Recently, we were very fortunate to receive a large donated supply of pumpkins. So we converted them into a really delicious pumpkin soup. Our catering team made that soup with pride.”
Stepping away from the 'soup kitchen'
The bowl of soup also serves as a reminder of the 86-year-old hostel’s past. Years prior, the Vinnie’s food relief service was regarded as a ‘soup kitchen’.
But as Purchase tells SBS, that phrase is now out-dated. “The term ‘soup kitchen’ is from a bygone era when food service [to the poor] was nothing more than an old ladle in a pot that scooped up soup,” Purchase says.
“We’ve really moved on from that. Today, we proudly provide wholesome meals to all our guests.”
Our catering team made that soup with pride.
The service’s menu now spans a wide range of meals from fry-up breakfasts to baked fish, pasta and takeaway toasties. “When we do offer offer soup, it’s a proper first-class, restaurant-style meal – just like the pumpkin soup we served recently that we made with a time-honoured recipe and great ingredients. Respect plays a big part in our menu preparation and cooking process.”
, operated by St Canice in Rushcutters Bay NSW, is another charity offering food and a human connection to people who have no permanent address. The 35-year-old service has also stepped away from its traditional ‘soup kitchen’ title. So much so, it no longer serves soup (due to health and safety reasons).
Instead, the kitchen offers many other professionally cooked dishes. “Today, chicken cacciatore served with a beautifully dressed green salad and roasted veggies was on the menu,” says Father David Braithwaite of St Canice. “Plus dessert. We offer nutritious food that’s also joyous.”
Cost of living changes
Not only are the dishes on offer at places like changing, but the demand for food relief is too. Braithwaite explains that this year, the kitchen is serving more older women and young people compared to previous years. It’s a worrying trend, which is expected to continue as costs of living go up.
“There's no doubt that people are turning up here for the first time in their lives because they can't afford to pay their rent or buy food. This is the hard reality of many people's lives right now.”
A 2024 survey by food rescue organisations, , shows that the need for food is at an all-time high.
“While we deliver over 500,000 meals every week – it’s just not enough to meet the demand,” says OzHarvest spokesperson, Fiona Nearn. “Innovation, creative thinking and community collaboration are all very much needed to ensure people can live healthy and sustainable lives.”
Food relief for the future
So what innovative changes are needed to empower food charities to meet an increased need in the near future?
Food pantries offering low-cost, subsidised grocery items may help struggling families to stay afloat and prevent homelessness.
OzHarvest believes that food waste reduction and redistribution solutions could also play a vital role in giving food – that would otherwise go to landfill – to the people who need it.
The in Sydney currently offers free rescued grocery items to people who can’t afford to eat. If money was no issue, more markets like this could be used to address demand.
Both Purchase and Braithwaite agree that more funding is needed to increase their food relief service and respective holistic support models that provide related services like health and employment programs. Braithwaite says the provision of affordable housing would also relieve cost pressures on households.
Purchase would like to see the ,located next door to the Talbot hostel, expanded to provide a holistic solution to food insecurity. OLC runs cooking lessons for disadvantaged participants who still have access to a home kitchen.
He’d also back the future creation of a new style of food relief delivery service. In a perfect world, nutritious food would be delivered to people in need by a case-worker who would offer human connection, referral services and support. Think of it as a ‘Meals on Wheels-style service’ for people aged under 55 who are struggling to afford food. “The biggest issue that holds us back is funding. If only we had an unlimited cheque book…”
I want them to feel full and know they’re welcome to come back for another meal, any time they like.
In the meantime, the charity will have to make do – and meet an increased demand – with whatever resources it currently has.
“I really believe that food is a vital essence, for everyone,” says Purchase. “So for now, I would just like the people who come to our kitchen to think ‘I've had a great meal’ every time they visit.
“I want them to feel full and know they’re welcome to come back for another meal, any time they like.”
