Caramel. Mmmm. Deliciously gooey … or it could be milky, toasty, nutty or brittle. So what is caramel, exactly? And what’s with the different types and forms?
All caramel is based on the combination of sugar and heat and, like most cooking, it’s a matter of chemical reactions. The different outcomes depend on the particular process and other ingredients used.
For example, what’s called the Maillard reaction will produce spreadable golden caramel such as the wonderful dulce de leche of Latin America, Spain, Portugal and France. Based on the browning of sugared milk or cream, and specifically the reaction between the proteins in the milk or cream and the added sugar when heated, this technique is what I use to make the caramel in my divine and .
You get a different result with the caramelisation of pure sugar, however. This technique requires you to heat sugar on its own, but I like to add a little water at the start to prevent burning due to hot spots in your saucepan or from the heat source. Adding water also lengthens the time it will take for the caramel to form (caramelisation begins when the sugar reaches 165°C) and interestingly it gives a more complex and richer-tasting caramel.
With this method, as the mixture boils and the water gradually evaporates, its temperature will rise and this will eventually cause the sucrose to convert into glucose and fructose. These sugars then break down to form a whole raft of new smaller compounds, which give the caramel its distinctive colour, aroma and taste. The caramel can then be used as it is, as a liquid before it solidifies (such as in my melt-in-the-mouth ) or left to set (as in a praline). Alternatively, other ingredients, such as butter, milk or cream, can be added to create a caramel with creamy, spooning or pouring consistency (such as my ).
And then there are those recipes that rely on both these types of caramel-forming techniques to create their unique character. The classic tarte tatin (which is the basis of my ) falls into this category – along with the caramelisation of the pure sugar, the cooking of the proteins and sugars of the onion is the Maillard reaction in action, – creating a wonderful double caramel combination.
The truth is, it doesn’t matter how many times I take some sugar and apply heat, I still marvel at the versatility and irresistibility of caramel – a true wonder of the chemistry of cooking.
Cook Anneka's caramel recipes
Shallot and thyme tarte tatin Source: Alan Benson
Source: Alan Benson
Source: Alan Benson
Dulce de leche means ‘sweetness of milk’ or ‘milk jam' in Spanish. Source: Alan Benson
Source: Alan Benson
Source: Alan Benson
Anneka's mission is to connect home cooks with the magic of baking, and through this, with those they love. For hands-on baking classes and baking tips, visit her at . Don't miss what's coming out of her oven via , , and .
